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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.